We also did some "touristy" things, including staying for a night at the Satemwa Tea Estate, a fabulous experience. You don't rent a room -- you rent the guest lodge -- so we stayed in a huge old house with a huge khondi on the front and sides. We felt like we were Tea Planters in the Twenties! We toured the tea plant and tasted teas the next day. Clearly there is more to this than our palate recognizes! We also went to Cape Maclear on Lake Malawi. The scenery is gorgeous, especially at sunset in this view from where we ate dinner. We went down the beach, past women washing dishes and clothes (as the resorts are in the middle of a fishing village) to another place for a leisurely breakfast.
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We stopped at Cape Maclear on our bike trip, and I was *very* sad to see that Gia lodge doesn't have those hanging chairs anymore! :(
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